It works.  Hundreds of flights now on two versions of my own Hyde mount (although this pic is pre-Hyde in plane 1) without a single break.

We have discovered that the key is damping the mass of the pipe/header combo and reducing the lever arm of oscillations/stress along the header length.  This is effectively done with two pipe clamps (we use the AAP type), then the lord-mount stud for the clamp around the header.

The "magic" is to properly mount the header so there is no VERTICAL bending, with only a single bend made to fit - ever - per installation. After once used, if you re-bend any header, they will break at the new stress point.

The header material is 5/8" OD stainless steel appliance tubing purchased at WalMart or HomeDepot or such place.  Cut off the ends.  Use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut some angular slots about 3/16" long about 4 or 5 places around the forward edge.  This is the area you "crimp" onto the header front piece. That's the broken Hatori piece you un-brazed the header material from by heating to cherry red with a butane torch.

Clean with a wire brush.   Apply paste silver brazing flux where the new header will crimp.  Cut the new header to approx. length, put the correct J or S bend you need, then crimp over the area you cleaned and fluxed.  You already bought the Sil Foss silver bearing brazing rod from the refrigeration/heating and air supply company.

Hold everything in place rigidly.  Heat the area of the crimp to RED, then apply the rod to flow the area.  There's a technique here, and it takes some practice.   At the other (coupler) end, I fill the coil area for one wrap of the tubing corrugation with SS wire, then fill with brazing rod, grind to shape, then smooth with wheel.  This allows a great seal into the 5/8" Viton™ coupler.

Be sure to leak test the thing before using.  If there is a leak at all, redo the deal.

Not counting the front piece, which you already paid for, the cost per header for this deal is about $7.

Yep.  I'm CHEAP.
Bob Pastorello -  rcaerobob@cox.net

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